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Aleksei Dengin (1982 ) Energija penjanja / Energy of climbing

2 Feb , 2019  

Jedan od najbolje plasiranih lednih penjača u 2018 Aleksej Dengin,u svemu liči na sportistu koji dolazi iz velikog sporta. Međutim, samo mali broj poznavalaca zna koliko je ledno penjanje hermetičan sport, ograničen na komunu malog broja zaljubljenika i istinskih sportista. Kako drugačije opisati sport u kome većina sportista nema nikakva primanja, odnosno sport u kome nacionalne federacije ne brinu o reprezentativcima, već se oni snalaze kako znaju da bi putovali i takmičili se za svoju zemlju.

Aleksej je verovatno pravi primer. Ako sam ga dobro razumeo preko godine radi (visinski radovi ili rope access) da bi od oktobra mogao da počne sa pripremama za sezonu takmičenja u lednom penjanju. Verovatno  jedina prednost je što potiče iz Kirova, grada odakle dolaze najbolji ledni penjači na svetu. Sve ostalo radi sam. Tako je naučio i Engleski pa možemo da se ispričamo.

Njegovo razmišljanje o penjanju se može uporediti sa pričom bilo kog velikog sportiste. Svejedno je da li priča o treningu, tehnici ili mentalnom, odnosno emotivnom pristupu svemu. Iako se Aleksej bavi penjanjem već dvadeset godina najveći problem je kako naći dovoljno energije da nastavi. Po ovome poslednjem odnosno po traženju energije za bavljenje lednim penjanjem me podsetio na najvećeg, našeg Novaka. Verovatno samo oni koji treniraju znaju koliko je teško redovno trenirati, odricati se mnogih stvari, a pogotovo naći motivaciju da se u svemu istraje. Većina ljudi misli da to je to što rade sportisti jednostavno. Međutim, da je tako svi bi bili sportisti ili bi bar većina vežbala.

Danas, u Rabenstainu, Italija, ga srećem nakon silnih peripetija koje je imao sa lancima za sneg koji su se dva puta iskidali, pa je nakon što ih je popravio, stigao na takmičenje u lednom penjanju i izborio mesto u polufinalu. Idemo da uživamo u takmičenju i podržimo prave sportiste kao što je Aleksej.

One of the best ice climbers in the year 2018, Alexei Dengin, looks like a athlete coming from a big sport. However, only a small number of enthusiasts know how ice climbing is a hermetic sport, limited to a small community of fans and true athletes. How to describe a sport differently in which most athletes do not have any income, or a sport in which the national federation does not care about the national team, but athletes try to find the way how to travel and compete for their own country.

Alexei is probably the true example. If I understand it well, over a year he works (rope access) in order to start preparations for the ice climbing season in October. Probably the only advantage is that he comes from Kirov, the city from where the best ice climbers in the world come from. He does everything else by himself. So he learned English and we can communicate.

His story about climbing can be compared with the view of any great athlete. Whether it’s a about training, technique, or a mental, or emotional approach to everything. Although Aleksei has been climbing for twenty years, the biggest problem is finding the enough energy to continue. According to this last e.g. by searching of energy for ice climbing he reminded me to the one of the biggest athlete ever, our Novak Djokovic. Probably only those who train know how hard it is to train regularly, give up many things, and especially find the motivation to persevere in everything. Most people think that what athletes are doing is easy. However, if it is like that everyone would be athletes or at least most of them would exercise.

Today, in Rabenstein, Italy, I meet Aleksei after he had problem with the car snow chains that were twice torn off, and after he made them, he arrived at the ice climbing competition and won the semifinals. We go to enjoy the competition and support real athletes such as Alexei.


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